In a chic 1920s townhouse on 74th Street, the team behind Sushi Noz has turned its attention to French and Basque fare. The restaurant is situated behind a locked door, so guests must ring to get in. Not for nothing, the diner’s very first impression of Chez Fifi is one of exclusivity — if the impossible reservation required didn’t feel exclusive enough already.
Yet the restaurant seems to be striving for neighborhood restaurant status at the same time as it literally turns people away at the door. And that’s not the only part of Chez Fifi that is contradictory and confusing.
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to The Taste Bud to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.